The Blackwater and Colne estuaries with their associated fleets , creeks and sailing clubs is one of the finest sailing locations in the UK and ideal for the dinghy cruiser. Arnold Bennett wrote in the log of his yacht ‘Velsa’ about the Blackwater: ‘it is a noble stream, a true arm of the sea; its moods are more various, its banks wilder, and its atmospheric effects much grander. The season for cruising on the Blackwater is September, when all the village regattas take place, and the sunrises over leagues of marsh are made wonderful by strange mists.’
Running broadly east-west, the shallower northern shore is unspoilt, but has very few access points. Launching and parking can be problem, so contact with one of the clubs is always a good option. Many of the smaller clubs’ slips are tidal, so one is looking at an outing between tides of a minimum of 8 hours (max 16 hours). The exceptions are Brightlingsea on the Colne,West Mersea, and – on the southern side – Bradwell and the Marconi and Stone sailing clubs, which have access at all states of the tide. The latter club at St Lawrence, being central, is possibly the best starting point. The tide runs strongly on the deeper southern side, but it is easy to use this to visit the pubs at Maldon or Heybridge basin or for a picnic onOseaIslandbeach. The upper reaches are accessible only at high tide and the ebb is then useful to bring you home. You need to be aware that at high tide beaches are rare and the waves on the concrete-covered sea walls can be very unforgiving; for this reason, visits to the pub at villages like Goldhanger would need to be planned.
My home club Tollesbury is another good cruising base – parking and launching 2 hours either side of high water is easy. It is possible to take the flood up to Stone, then return on the ebb past Bradwell and then perhaps pay a visit toWest Merseafor a great seafood lunch at the renowned ‘Company Shed’ or for other refreshments. But althoughWest Merseadoes have access at all tidal states via a public hard, it can be very congested with boats and cars. Continuing on the ebb tide, East Mersea Stone has a shingle beach even at low tide but no access or facilities. However, oppositeEast Merseais Brightlingsea creek – another prime destination with excellent fish and chips and plenty of pubs! Fully restored, one would then take the flood back alongMerseaIslandand into the Tollesbury fleet. My preference however, being a mere racer and not having yet fitted the Ikea futon, is a quick dart to the café at Mersea on the tide for an all day breakfast!
Visiting Rowhedge or Wivenhoe on the Colne would be possible by leavingWest Merseaor Brightlingsea at half tide and taking the flood up the Colne. Both of these villages have tall quays, fascinating ship buildings, histories and waterfront pubs. A good guide is Jack Cootes –‘East Coast Rivers’- probably well out of print now but worth finding; alternatively club web sites (eg www.tollesburysc.co.uk) will have plenty of information. Cruising visitors will be made very welcome here at Tollesbury, it is also the only club on the Blackwater with an active GP14 racing/cruising fleet.
George Rogers, Tollesbury SC